Before deciding on what best fabric to use on a dress or gown, it is important that you learn the two components to a fabric – the WEAVE and the FIBER/CONTENT.
The WEAVE is the way the fiber is woven and the “hand” or the way the fabric looks and drapes. It is most often mistaken for the type of fabric content. For instance, satin is the weave not the fiber or content. It can be woven in any number of fibers from cotton (sateen) to polyester, silk, nylon, or even blends of fibers.
Descriptions of each woven fabric are listed below along with its possible fiber content.
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Batiste |
| A lightweight, soft woven fabric. VERY popular in Southern heirloom sewing. The higher the quality, the more translucent it appears to be.
Likely Fiber Content: Cotton, poly, or poly/cotton. |
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Broadcloth |
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Brocade |
| A jacquard-woven fabric with raised designs like a lightweight tapestry but generally in one color. Traditionally popular for fall and winter, now also worn in warmer weather. Design, colors and appearance can be dramatically different on each side of fabric. Can often be used either side.
Likely Fiber Content: Cotton, polyester, rayon, metallics, wool, silk. |
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Challis |
| A soft, lightweight, plain weave woven fabric with good drape.
Likely Fiber Content: Rayon or wool, can possibly also be cotton. |
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Charmeuse |
| Delicate soft woven fabric with satin-like finish but much lighter weight. Makes terrific shells and dresses with strong draping. Comes in several weights. Lighter weights are excellent for bias neckline finishes and linings.
Likely Fiber Content: Silk, polyester, cotton. |
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Chiffon |
| Delicate, sheer, and transparent woven fabric with a soft finish; often layered because of its transparency, making it popular for overskirts, sheer sleeves, and wraps. Can be a bit unstable and shift, especially on the bias.
Likely Fiber Content: Silk, rayon, cotton, polyester. |
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Crepe |
| A light, soft, and thin woven fabric with a crinkled or nubbley under surface. Usually drapes beautifully.
Likely Fiber Content: Silk, polyester, rayon. |
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Crepe De Chine |
| A very light woven smooth fabric similar to an extremely light satin finish on both sides. Drapes just a little. Makes nice shells and blouses.Likely Fiber Content: Silk, rayon. | |
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Damask |
| Woven fabric similar to brocade with raised designs, but woven in a much lighter weight.
Likely Fiber Content: Silk, wool, rayon, cotton. |
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Double-faced Satin |
| Woven fabric; is satin with a glossy smooth side front and back.
Likely Fiber Content: Polyester,cotton. |
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Duchesse Satin |
| A very high grade of satin. Mid- to heavy grade. Rather matte in finish.
Likely Fiber Content: Polyester, cotton, silk. |
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Dupioni |
| A finish similar to shantung, but with thicker, coarser fibers, and a slight sheen.
Likely Fiber Content: Cotton, poly/cotton, polyester, wool. |
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Faille |
| A structured, fine ribbed-like finish similar to grosgrain ribbon. Can be lightweight as for blouses or heavier.
Likely Fiber Content: Polyester primarily and also silk. |
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Gabardine |
| A tightly-woven, firm twill-like fabric with high twist in threads. Creates a durable finish, with single diagonal lines on the face. Resists wrinkles and creases (including pleats).
Likely Fiber Content: Cotton, poly/cotton, polyester, wool. |
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Gazar |
| A four-ply silk organza. A bit more opaque than organza.
Likely Fiber Content: Silk, cotton, polyester. |
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Georgette |
| A sheer, lightweight fabric – very pretty and feminine – with a delicate crepe-like surface. Very light, ethereal. Difficult to hem properly. Bias shifts so hemlines will change and become uneven over time.
Likely Fiber Content: Silk, polyester. Others possible include rayon, acetate (poor quality). |
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Illusion |
| A fine, sheer net fabric, generally used on sleeves or necklines. Often confused with tulle (which is coarser).
Likely Fiber Content: Silk. |
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Jersey |
| A very elastic knit fabric; the face has lengthwise ribs and the underside has crosswise ribs.
Likely Fiber Content: Wool, silk, cotton, rayon, poly/cotton. |
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Linen |
| A weave of fabric that has a distinct warp and weft. True linen is made from fibers inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle very easily unless blended with manufactured fibers. Linen is one of the oldest textile fibers. NOTE: The term is now frequently used for fabrics made with other fibers with a “linen finish” – they are not true linen.
Likely Fiber Content: Linen (for true linen). Blends such as linen/rayon and poly blends are now being called “linen” because the weave is similar. |
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Moire |
| A heavy taffeta with a subtle, wavy design.
Likely Fiber Content: Polyester or silk. |
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Organdy |
| A stiff and very thin transparent fabric with a crisp finish.
Likely Fiber Content: Cotton or polyester. |
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Organza |
| Crisp and sheer like organdy but softer – a bit stiffer than chiffon and almost as flowing; popular for skirts, sleeves, backs, and overlays.
Likely Fiber Content: Silk or polyester. |
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Peau de Soie |
| A soft satin-faced, high-quality cloth with a dull luster, fine ribs, and a slightly grainy appearance.
Likely Fiber Content: Usually polyester. |
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Pique |
| A lengthwise rib weave in medium to heavy weights; some resists wrinkles while others wrinkle badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish.
Likely Fiber Content: Cotton, polyester, rayon or blends of fibers too. |
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Satin |
| A smooth fabric with sheen on one side and dull matte on other; very common in bridal gowns. Can be many weights from mid- to very heavy. Degree of shine varies by fiber content. Nylon and acetate shine the most.
Likely Fiber Content: Polyester, silk, rayon. |
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Silk Mikado |
| A brand of blended silk, usually heavier than 100-percent silk. Can have a high/low sheen that adds a subtle yet sophisticated surface.
Likely Fiber Content: Silk. |
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Shantung |
| Similar to a raw silk, shantung is characterized by its clumpy texture which is considered part of its highly desirable charm. Has a slight sheen.
Likely Fiber Content: Silk, cotton, rayon, polyster. |
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Taffeta |
| Smooth like satin but really crisp and is usually lighter, with a slight rib; used a lot in bridal and formal wear; like anything, its popularity comes and goes with fashion. It gives the distinctive rustling sound when moving around and can make a flower girl feel like a princess. Likely Fiber Content: Silk, nylon, rayon. |
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Tulle |
| Netting made of silk, nylon, or rayon; used primarily for skirts and veils (think ballerina tutus). It can be used as an overlay for flower girl gowns especially for a fairly tale themed wedding. Likely Fiber Content: Silk, cotton, rayon, nylon. |
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Velvet |
| A soft, thick fabric with a cut-loop face creating “pile” of varying depths depending depending on quality and preference with plain underside. The pile can be “cut” to create gorgeous, elaborate patterns. Can also be printed. “Burn out” velvet actually is etched with acid to create sheer sections so the raised velvet is a pattern on sheer background – gorgeous!
Likely Fiber Content: Cotton, polyester, silk, rayon. |